By Janna Cuneo
My great grandma was known as Maringa, and that was a Genovese dialect nickname for I don’t know what. She was a wide and solid woman who only wore black dresses and black stockings, and she was in her 90’s for at least 30 years, by all family descriptions. When my dad was seven, she would take him to the woods in Southern CT and they would go mushroom hunting all day, because it made her feel more at home, and less like an immigrant.
Maringa was also a badass. She had this tomato garden that was her pride and joy, and she took any and all attacks by wild life very personally– so much so that she took to sitting in a rocking chair in the middle of the vegetable garden. With a 2 x 4 in hand.
My mom tells me that she was frequently served a delcious polenta stew on Sundays, with rich tomato sauce and slow cooked meats inside. I guess my dad forgot to tell that any animal that crossed Maringa’s path was sacrified (using the aforementioned 2×4) and deliciously prepared for the family. My mom has refused to make polenta since 1973, but I think it’s damn tasty. Please note: This recipe does not require you to bludgeon your own protein.
*Substitutions are welcome. White cannelini beans are a good meat replacement. Lacinato kale is also excellent with this.
POLENTA:
5 cups of cold water
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 fresh bay leaves
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
Shredded fontina or Good Parmigiana
1 cup yellow polenta
Pour water and olive oil into your heaviest pot, add salt and bay leaves, and boil. Add polenta by the handful by sprinkling into the boiling water, and whisk steadily. Whisk while at a medium boil, and lower heat and stop stirring after you see big bubbles coming up out of polenta. Put the cover on the pot part way, and simmer. Stir frequently for 25 minutes, until polenta is shiny and uniform. Should be soft, not firm! Add 1 cup shreaded fontina on top, and serve with a big slop of sauce in the middle.
SAUCE:
8 slabs of bacon
2 crushed garlic cloves
1/3 cup olive oil
8 fresh sage leaves
2 cups chopped onion
1/4 oz dried porcini mushrooms
1 tbsp dried rosemary
1 tbsp kosher salt
2 cups dried red wine
2 cups broth (pick whichever kind you like)
6 cups canned plum tomatoes
1/2 toasted pine nuts
Chop spices with pine nuts and 2 tbsp olive oil in a food processor, and set aside. Add olive oil and onions and garlic to pot, cook til translucent. Now add porcini and sage, pinch of salt, and carmelize onions. Now add bacon, chopped into bites, cook until crispy and tender. Remove bacon and set aside. Add the wine and reduce it by 1/3. Add tomatos. Add the pureed nuts and spices, cook over medium heat, slowly adding stock. Stir regularly on low heat, 2 hrs minimum.